Can I Put Avocado Scion on Lemon Rootstock

By: Pam Elam
Academy of California Cooperative Extension Subcontract Advisor
Fresno Canton

It is ofttimes tempting, after eating a particularly good orange or avocado, to institute the seed and abound our own tree full of these delicious fruit. Copse grown from these seed, however, may produce fruit that are not edible at all, or the trees may not bear fruit for many years. The all-time style to produce good-quality fruit is to abound seedlings from them and and then attach, past budding or grafting, material from trees that are known to exist good producers. Budding and grafting tin can also be used to modify or add varieties to mature citrus or avocado trees, a process known as top working.

This publication is a brief introduction to budding and grafting for the home gardener. For more information, consult the materials listed at the end of this publication or contact your local Cooperative Extension office.

ESTABLISHING SEEDLINGS

The all-time time of year to start citrus or avocado seedlings is in early on jump. To germinate citrus or avocado seed, establish them in a shallow container such equally a nursery apartment or a pan with drainage holes in well-drained commercial potting mix. Plant the seed two to 3 times deeper than their length. For case, a citrus seed most ¼ inch (6 mm) long should exist planted nigh ½ to ¾ inch (12 to xviii mm) deep. Keep the seed in a warm identify-betwixt 70° and 80°F (21° to 27°C)-and keep the soil moist. Roofing the nursery flats with articulate glass or plastic will help maintain the proper humidity. Avocado seed tin can as well be germinated by suspending them in water. Identify toothpicks horizontally into the seed near the peak. Suspend the wide end of the seed in a pocket-size container of water with the toothpicks resting on the edge of the container. Place it in indirect low-cal and refresh the water at least weekly.

After formation (normally 12 to 15 days), replant the seedlings into a larger container of good-quality commercial potting mix. (If all danger of frost has passed, the seedlings may exist planted directly into the footing where you want the tree to abound instead of replanted into containers.) Proficient choices for containers include a cardboard milk carton cut horizontally in half or a one-gallon can. Punch bleed holes in the bottom of the container. The bulb will be set for budding or grafting when it has grown to 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm) tall.

Keys to Budding and Grafting

Budding and grafting are vegetative propagation techniques in which a single bud or stem (scion) of a desired constitute (cultivar) is attached to a rootstock plant. In budding, a single bud with its accompanying bark (often referred to every bit budwood) is used as the scion. In grafting, part of a stem or branch is used equally the scion. One of the most of import keys to successful budding and grafting is properly positioning the scion on the rootstock. In order for the scion and rootstock to grow together, the thin greenish plant layer (cambium) just under the bawl of the scion and rootstock must be aligned then that they impact each other. If they practice not touch each other, the bud or graft volition neglect. Within 10 to 15 days, a successful bud or graft forms a hard whitish tissue (callus) where the two cambium layers grow together.

Always use sharp cutting or grafting instruments and make make clean, even cuts. Options include a budding knife, a precipitous kitchen knife, or a single-sided razor bract. Do not allow the cutting surfaces of the scion or rootstock to dry out out. Immerse cut scions in a pail of h2o, wrap them in plastic, or graft them immediately after cutting. Likewise, remove whatsoever leaves from scions afterwards cutting to assist keep the scions from losing water. Keep the scions in a cool place during the work.

When to Bud or Graft

Budding and grafting are all-time done in the bound or fall when the bark is easily separated from the woods. Information technology should be timed to be early enough then that warm weather volition assist ensure a proficient bud union, yet belatedly enough so that the bud will not begin to grow and callus will non abound over the bud itself. Citrus budded or grafted in the autumn must be protected from frost. Avocados are best grafted in the spring when the bark is easily separated from the forest.

BUDDING

Budding is the standard method used to propagate citrus. Aside from existence the easiest method, it allows a big number of plants to be propagated from a small amount of scion woods and is suitable for copse, rootstocks, or branches from 1 /iv to i inch (0.6 to 2.5 cm) in diameter.

Budwood should exist taken just from loftier-producing, illness-free trees (see Warning at terminate of this commodity). The all-time citrus budwood is located just below the most recent flush of new growth; the best avocado budwood is located nearly the terminal end of shoots that have fully matured, leathery leaves.

How to make a T-bud

T-budding (see fig. ane) is generally the best budding method for citrus and avocados. To make a T-bud, make a T-shaped cutting on the rootstock about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) in a higher place the footing (fig. 1A). The vertical function of the T should be most 1 inch (two.five cm) long and the horizontal function
well-nigh i-3rd of the distance around the rootstock. Twist the knife gently to open up flaps of bawl. Avert cut through any buds on the bark of the rootstock.

On the scion (fig. 1B), cut a selected bud beginning nigh i /2 inch (1.two cm) below the bud and catastrophe near three /4 to ane inch (1.nine to 2.five cm) across the bud. Make a horizontal cut well-nigh 3 /4 inch (1.nine cm) to a higher place the bud down through the bark and into the forest. Gently remove the shield-shaped piece for budding (fig. 1C).

Slip the budwood downward into the T-shaped cut under the two flaps of bark until the horizontal cuts of the bud friction match up with the horizontal cut of the T (fig. 1D). After inserting the budwood into the rootstock, wrap the bud and rootstock with budding rubber (fig. 1E). Budding rubber is available from agricultural supply or hardware stores; if budding prophylactic is unavailable, use wide safety bands, green tie tape, or stretchy record. Get out the bud exposed while wrapping. Practise not coat the area with grafting wax or sealant.

If the budding is done in the fall, the buds should be healed in about 6 to eight weeks; in the spring, healing should have nigh 3 to 4 weeks. After the bud has healed, unwrap information technology and cutting off the remaining shoots or stock almost 12 to 14 inches (thirty to 35 cm) higher up the bud union. This will be the nurse co-operative, which helps protect the new bud marriage. Subsequently the budwood has grown a few new leaves, completely remove the nurse branch to about 1 /8 inch (three mm) in a higher place the bud marriage (fig. 2).

GRAFTING

Whip grafting

The best grafting technique for pocket-size-diameter 1/4 to 1 /2 inch [0.vi to one.two cm]) rootstocks is whip grafting. Whip grafting should exist done in the fall or spring. Although whip grafts employ more scion wood than budding does, they allow the grafted plant to develop more rapidly.

To make a whip graft (fig. 3), select equally a scion hard and mature green wood. Commencement brand a long, sloping cutting about i to ii½ inches (2.5 to 6.2 cm) long on the rootstock (fig. 3A). Make a matching cut on the scion. Cut a "natural language" on both the scion and rootstock past slicing downward into the wood (figs. 3B-3C). The tongues should let the scion and rootstock to lock together. Fit the scion to the rootstock (fig. 3D) and secure with budding rubber (fig. 3E). Apply grafting wax to seal the union. To prevent sunburn, new whip grafts should be protected from the lord's day until they heal. After the scion has begun to grow, remove any growth from the rootstock. If necessary, support new shoots by staking.

Bark grafting

The best grafting technique for large-diameter trees or branches is bawl grafting (fig. 4). To make a bark graft, first cut off the rootstock (the trunk or branch to exist grafted) just above a crotch where smaller branches sprout out. If possible, try to retain i branch of the original found as a nurse branch. The nurse branch will provide the scion nutrition and support from wind (the nurse co-operative will eventually exist removed).

Cut vertical slits 21/two to 3 1/two inches (6.2 to 8.7 cm) long through the bark of the remaining freshly cut rootstock stubs downward to the wood. These slits should be spaced iii to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.five cm) apart. Cut the scions 5 to 6 inches (12.five to 15 cm) long with four to 6 buds per scion (figs. 4A-4C). If scions are cut longer than this, they may dry out out before healing. When cutting the scions, brand a sloping cut nigh three inches (7.five cm) long at the base of the scion.

Using a grafting knife or other very sharp knife, lift the bark on one side of the slit. Insert the scion into the slit with the long-cutting surface of the scion facing the wood of the rootstock and button information technology downwardly into the slit (fig. 4D). Brand certain that the scion fits snugly into the slits in the bawl and that the cambiums are properly aligned.

Secure citrus scions by nailing them in place with thin flathead nails or tying them with strong cord or tree tape. Secure avocado scions with plastic nursery tape. Coat all cutting surfaces thoroughly, including the tops of the scions, with grafting wax or pruning pigment. To protect the graft from sunburn, paint it with white interior water-based pigment, either undiluted or mixed 50/l with water. Paint the unabridged expanse effectually the graft union, including the scions, waxed areas, and the exposed trunk beneath the graft matrimony. Inspect the grafts frequently and re-wax them if they begin to crevice or dry out.

In one case the scions begin to abound well, remove all but one scion per branch. Early on on, however, prune the scions that will exist removed to reduce their vigor but do not clip the scion that volition exist kept. The i scion you go along volition eventually go a main scaffold branch. Whatsoever nurse branches should also be removed subsequently all the scions are growing well.

TOP WORKING

Meridian working is the process of changing fruit varieties on a mature tree. Most citrus and avocado are top worked past bark grafting (encounter higher up). Top working should be done in the spring or fall.

WARNING: Information technology is confronting California law to bring citrus budwood into the San Joaquin Valley from whatever expanse exterior the valley. This law protects commercial citrus groves from disease caused by the Tristezavirus. Budwood or scion wood should be collected only from citrus that has been tested in the concluding year and found to be free of Tristezavirus. Consult your local county Cooperative Extension role for more than details..

FURTHER READING

Garner, R. J., and Due south. A. Chaudri. 1976. The propagation of tropical fruit trees. Eastward Malling, Kent, England: Commonwealth Bureau of Horticulture and Plantation Crops, Horticultural Review No. 4.
Hartmann, H. T., and J. A. Beutel. 1994. Propagation of temperate-zone fruit plants. Oakland: Academy of California Sectionalisation of Agriculture and Natural Resources Publication 21103.

Hartmann, H. T., and D. Eastward. Kester. 1975, Plant propagation: Principles and practices. 3rd ed. Engelwood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall.

Reuther, Walter. 1973. The citrus industry. Vol. iii. Oakland: University of California Division of Agriculture Sciences.

Whitsell, R. H., G. East. Martin, B. O. Bergh, A. Five. Lypps, and Westward. H. Brokan. 1989. Propagating avocados: Principles and techniques of plant nursery and field grafting. Oakland: Academy of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources Publication 21461.

Tasaki, Ernia. 1985. All nigh citrus and subtropical fruits. San Ramon, CA: Ortho Books

The writer would similar to give thanks Raul Gonzalas, Lindcove Research & Extension Center, for assistance
with this publication. An electronic version of this publication is bachelor on the DANR Communication Services website at http://danrcs.ucdavis.edu.
Publication 8001
©1997 by the Regents of the University of California,
Partition of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

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